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Cape Split – Natural wonder or mythical creation?

Red cliffs of Blomidon with Cape Split extending far out into the Bay of Fundy

Some day I would like to be able to claim that I have seen and experienced all 7 natural wonders of the world. Until that day comes I will just have to spend a great deal of time exploring one of Canada’s most notable natural wonders – The Bay of Fundy. Home to the highest tides anywhere on earth is quite the title and we here in Nova Scotia share this natural wonder with our next door neighbors in New Brunswick. the Bay of Fundy makes its way past New Brunswick and funnels across Nova Scotia, almost cutting the province in half, leaving us with the Cobequid Hills on the bays northern shore and the North Mountain Range on the southern shore of the Bay of Fundy.

Aerial view of Cape Split during high tide

An imposing feature dominates the bay – jetting out like a giant fish-hook, separating the bay into two distinct eco-systems, the main portion of the bay with its charcoal grey basalt cliffs and towering sea stacks. The other portion being the arrowhead shaped Minas Basin, made up of fine red sandstone and rock formations sculpted and shaped in a peculiar manner. This giant fish-hook is known as Cape Split. Many local Nova Scotians have hiked the well-groomed 16km round trip trail to the grassy meadow overlooking the changing tides in the bay and the impressive views down some 3ooft below to the volcanic sea stacks known as the 3 sisters. Not to be confused with the other 3 sisters which lie at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy at Cape Chignecto Provincial Park. From this vantage point one can see the ripple of the sea for as far as the eye can see as Mother Nature puts on a show.

Fog rises as the tides begin their journey out

A much smaller number of people have had the chance to see this remarkable sight from below. One major reason being the tides themselves. If not timed right your weekend outing could be your last. The tides in the Bay of Fundy come in at a tremendous rate and are not to be underestimated. On a number of occasions parties of hikers have had to be rescued by helicopter, talked about an expensive hike. Those who know the trail leading down to the rocky beach will speak about Cape Split and the up close and personal experience of the changing of the worlds highest tides with great enthusiasm and excitement. The adrenaline felt knowing you are witnessing 100 billion tons of water being sucked out to sea is hard to grasp with mere words alone. The 3 sisters appear to grow taller and taller as the water vanishes and reveals a landscape which in less than 12 hours will be completely swallowed and submerged under water once again.

Down to the beach we go

Waiting for the tides to recede in “Little Split Rock Cove”

Down on the ocean floor the sun warms your face while standing in the shadows of these towering 300ft cliffs the air is cool and haunting. One can only imagine the frightening forces that must have occurred to thrust these volcanic rock columns up from the open cracks in the ocean floor. Magma spewing out so hot that it bubbled even in the cool frigid waters of the Bay of Fundy being feed by the Atlantic Ocean. Before the magma could cool and claim its new territory, the Bay of Fundy had plans of her own. The tides began to recede and pull with great force like a giant tug of war, pulling apart a mass of land that would dwarf most high-rises in downtown Halifax.

The great gap of Cape Split

Monstrous sea cliffs loom overhead – notice 2 people standing on far right edge

At the end of the road – mission accomplished

Was this what really occurred? Or was it the work of the great Mi’kmaq god – Glooscap? His arch-enemy Beaver was said to have built a massive dam that clogged up the Bay of Fundy causing the tides to flood the land and carve out the Annapolis Valley. The red sandstone top soil was then washed into the sea creating the Minas Basin and its sandy ocean floor. Glooscap did not take well to this and struck down with a thunderous bolt of lightning – breaking apart the dam and slicing off a chunk of land resembling a sliver of cake.

Care for a slice of cake anyone?

Scrambling along the volcanic basalt boulders

Revealing a rocky unforgiving landscape

During the summer months when the sun is high in the sky, onlookers can see the profile of a man’s face being cast upon the Bay of Fundy from the near vertical sea cliffs. Could it be that Clooscap is still watching over the tides, making sure the land, sea and sky are in perfect harmony? You’ll just have to make the trek to truly find out for yourself.

The spirit of Glooscap lives on

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Canada’s ocean playground – Something for all ages

Tall Ship Festival 2012

Tall Ship Festival 2012

As parent’s with a young family have you ever had a hard time finding destinations to travel to that will spark both you and your children’s interests? We see it everyday on the television about these man made places that will bring your young family joy and happiness, but lets face it, they are both expensive and unnatural. First let’s take a moment to think back to when you we were kids. Did you not find entertainment in many various forms in the outdoors. I mean seriously, I use to spend hours on end playing in the woods and exploring the coastline in search of crabs, sand dollars, interesting pieces of drift wood and beach glass. It’s amazing that the unspoiled mind of a child can find such delight in the most simple things. Doesn’t it make you want to turn back the clock and become a kid again, well maybe just for a short period of time. Well my friends if you feel this same way then we have quite the surprise for you.

Welcome to Nova Scotia, Canada’s ocean playground. With over 3800 islands surrounding the province, over 3000 inland lakes and more than 7400 km’s of coastline to explore, this place packs quite the punch for one of Canada’s smallest provinces. A family adventure awaits you around every corner as you travel through Nova Scotia. Let’s start in the capital city of Halifax. This great historical port city boosts many opportunities for families to enjoy. Together you can visit museums, sail the Halifax Harbour and enjoy many of the events and festivals that happen during the summer months along our beautiful waterfront, such as the always popular Buskers and Tall Ships Festival.

Halifax Citadel Fortress

Halifax Citadel Fortress

Of course when traveling with the family there is always the urge to get out of the cities and experience what the country side has to offer, and Nova Scotia does not disappoint in this department. It is home to the world’s highest tides at the Bay of Fundy, the world famous Cabot Trail on the island of Cape Breton and offers families the opportunity to explore the coastline by kayak, hike the lush boreal forests, canoe gentle rivers or just relax on a long stretch of beach all to your own. The kid’s will be amazed at the marine life that frequent our waters and the learning experiences one can expect when visiting Nova Scotia for the first time, or returning because you just can’t get enough of this place are plentiful.

I told them it was made of Styrofoam

I told them it was made of Styrofoam

The family activities that can be had at and near the Bay of Fundy are endless. If you check the tide times carefully you can walk the ocean floor where valuable treasure was once buried by the notorious pirates that once sailed these waters. If your lucky and have a keen eye you may find a gem such as amethyst or jade which can be found along these shores. If your willing to get wet and muddy then head to the Shubenacadie River for some tidal bore rafting. It is here that the worlds highest tides get funneled and squeezed into the river creating a washing cycle type effect known as the “Tidal Bore”. Only difference here is that you are part of the wash and let’s just say your not going to come out clean and fresh. Riding these muddy waves is a true rush and this natural phenomenon must be experienced while in Nova Scotia with your family.

Other  great activities to experience on the Bay of Fundy would definitely be “Whale Watching”. At the far end of the Digby Neck is Brier’s Island. This is one of the major feeding grounds during the summer months for large species of whales such as the Humpback, Northern Right Whale, Fun Whale and many kinds of sea bird’s and huge colonies of seals. Seeing a 4o ton, 60 ft long animal breach (leap fully out of the water) will truly feed the soul and have the kid’s screaming in amazement, or maybe even have you screaming like a child.

Riding the “Wild Bore”

Riding the “Wild Bore”

If you really seek adventure and world class scenery, pack up the family and head for Cape Breton for some of Canada’s most amazing coastal drives and breathtaking mountain views. It is here that you may just find yourself falling in love with the gentle, caring people of this island and the culture that they continue to cherish which has brought over by the early Scottish settlers. Cape Breton has many opportunities to spot whales swimming and feeding off the coast, watch huge Eagles soaring high over the Bras D’or Lakes and hanging your head out the window as your circle the stunning Cabot Trail. Trust me when I say this, Nova Scotia has so much to offer you and your family and you owe it to yourselves and your children. So put down your smartphone and stop filing those papers and make your next family get away to Canada’s ocean playground, Nova Scotia. You never know, you might just realize there is an inner child in you just waiting to get out and PLAY :)

Don’t wear your best shirt for this adventure

Don’t wear your best shirt for this adventure

Cape Breton Highlands in full color

Cape Breton Highlands in full color

Close encounters with nature

Close encounters with nature

Driving the winding roads of the “Cabot Trail”

Driving the winding roads of the “Cabot Trail”

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Cape Breton Island – An island of wonder

Cape Breton Highlands National Park – Where mountains meet the sea

If you were asked what makes Cape Breton, Nova Scotia so special, you probably couldn’t sum it up with a short answer. I mean think about this, National Geographic once rated Cape Breton as the 2nd most beautiful island in the world. I would have to say that is pretty remarkable considering the world is full of majestic islands. So what makes it so special? Well allow me to paint a little picture for you about this outstanding and inspiring place.

For many years having been in the shadow of well-known Canadian destinations such as the Rockies, Cape Breton has suddenly gained recognition among the global market and propelled into the international spotlight. Once you cross the Canso Causeway and leave mainland Nova Scotia behind, arriving on the island it’s like a great weight is lifted off your shoulders. Life on the island is much like turning back the clock some 50 years, when life was much more simple. When one could count on their neighbor to help with a broken down vehicle, when leaving your home unlocked was the norm, and when stopping to talk to an old friend in the grocery store was not an inconvenience to your busy schedule. Unlike life in the big cities, Cape Breton is made up of mostly small towns and villages with the majority of the residents being blue-collar workers. Not much has changed here since the golden days of mining and fishing and it’s because of this that the “Capers” or “Islanders” still enjoy a much slower pace of life and can take time to enjoy a coffee break with their dear friend or marvel in the island’s unsurpassed natural beauty.

Exploring the rugged coastline of northern Cape Breton

The northern part of Cape Breton is home to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park which makes up part of the world famous, Cabot Trail. What these mountains may lack in height, they certainly make up for in splendid beauty. Along the western part of the park the highlands rise straight up from the ocean to a height of 1500ft (500m). That is roughly the height of the Empire State Building. You could easily say that these are Nova Scotia’s skyscrapers. Along the coastal drive here the scenery is spectacular to say the least and the wildlife is abundant. The massive but oh so graceful moose can be spotted along the skyline trail and pods of pilot whales are seen frequently swimming in the Gulf of St Lawrence. Here off the coast is one of the finest places in Canada to spot the larger species of whales. Throughout the warmer months the Gulf of St. Lawrence is a feeding ground for such whales as the Humpback, Pilot Whales, Atlantic White sided Dolphins and the 85ft (28m) Fin Whale. The worlds 2nd largest shark also has been spotted here in recent years, that title belongs to the Basking Shark which can grow to a staggering length of 38ft (12m). Not to be afraid though as this massive shark feeds off of millions of plankton as he is known as a filter feeder. Cape Breton is also home to an enormous number of seabirds. The most prized species for birdwatchers or anyone for that matter is the Atlantic Puffin, or also referred to as the “Clown of the Sea”. It is here that you can take a boat tour to see the largest colony of Puffins in Atlantic Canada outside of Newfoundland. Sharing the same real estate on the rightfully named “Bird Islands” are large numbers of Cormorants, Black Guillemot, Razorbills, Herring Gulls, Black Legged Kittiwakes and even Grey Seals. Cape Breton is also home to the largest population of Bald Eagles in North America outside of Alaska. As you circle your way around the winding Cabot Trail you will witness this symbolic bird gracefully soaring through the sky or perched high in the trees on watch for careless prey.

Cabot’s Landing Beach – The site where John Cabot first landed in 1497

Cape Breton offers some the most challenging and rewarding hikes in all of Eastern Canada. There are trails that can be done by just about anyone of any age, and trails that take a number of days to complete that pass by mountains, waterfalls and endless coastal vistas. There are a number of designated trails in the National Park that allow you to explore the rugged coastline, wind through coastal forests and some that climb to the rooftop of Nova Scotia for a bird’s eye view of the valleys that lie far below. Which ever trail you decide to tackle you can be assured that you will be rewarded with inspiring beauty and memorial wildlife sightings. A large majority of residents from Cape Breton can trace back their ancestry to the old country of Scotland. In fact there is a healthy population of people here who still speak the Gaelic language. Attending the Gaelic Collage in St Ann’s Bay, Cape Breton, students spend their days learning to play traditional Scottish instruments such as the fiddle and bagpipes, and learn the Gaelic language which dates back to the 4th century in the old country. With much of our history and traditions being influenced by the Scots, it’s no wonder why we were given the name Nova Scotia, which was translated to English from the Latin language meaning “New Scotland”.

So now that I have painted a picture for you, imagine yourself climbing a mountain, watching the waves crash over rugged sea stacks, encountering various seabirds, enormous whales, Canada’s 2nd largest land mammal, dancing the night away at a traditional Ceilidh or just taking time to sit back and relax, surrounding yourself with both rich culture and natural beauty. Well you can do all that on one of the world’s most beautiful islands, Cape Breton Island. So, what are you waiting for? Do yourself a favour and start making your travel plans to come experience this great island with us and marvel in Nova Scotia’s masterpiece, Cape Breton.

Puffin – Bird Island’s, Cape Breton

Whale Watching – Pleasant Bay, Cape Breton 

The Skyline Hiking Trail – Overlooking the Cabot Trail

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Wildlife at your doorstep

If you are like most people who crave the outdoors in the summer, you are probably indoors during this time of year and counting down the days till the snow melts away and flowers start to bloom. Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE summer but the winter season offers many great opportunities if you just plan ahead and are well prepared.

One thing I love to do in the snowy season is pack up my camera and search out wildlife. You may be asking yourself “Is there much wildlife around in the winter”, well the short answer to that is simply “YES”. Although some of the larger Canadian mammals seek shelter and hibernate for the cooler months, many species are out searching for food during day light hours and are quite easy to spot because there are no leaves on the trees and fresh tracks can be found throughout the snow.

During one of my afternoon outings I noticed some fresh rabbit tracks. I quietly followed the tracks and behold, there was the rabbit off in the distance at the edge of an open field. As I sat and watched him for roughly 5 minutes I was greeted by another animal. On the other side of the field was an alpha male coyote, who was of course watching the same rabbit as I, but he had other intentions for this rabbit other than taking photos of him. Although I was a far distance away from the coyote, I was able to get some great portraits of him with my 300mm telephoto lens. For all you rabbit lovers, the rabbit got away and I was able to get some great photos of this magical moment.

Alpha Male Coyote keeping a close eye on his prey

If you are lucky and you live near the coast then you should take the next chance you get and head out to enjoy the ocean scenery for the last couple months of winter. Of course there is no shortage of coastline here in Nova Scotia, Canada and I know first hand how many wildlife opportunities present themselves this time of year. We all know that many birds fly south to warmer destinations during this time of year, much like we do when we are feeling the “Winter Blues”, but many actually come and stay for the cool weather. Some of the seabirds that can be found along the coastline of Nova Scotia during the winter are Dovekies, Mergansers, Surf Scoters and King Eiders to name a few. Many of these birds are visually striking with their winter coats and make for some great photo opportunities. Because the winter light is not nearly as harsh as is the case when shooting during the summer months, photos tend to come out clearer and better exposed even for photographers just starting out and getting familiarized with the settings and capabilities of their cameras.

Winter provides invigorating light to work with

Soft winter light provides the perfect opportunity for sunsets. Try to include foreground interest such as this tree and include reflections in the frozen ice if at all possible to make your photos pop and WOW your friends with your new photo skills.

So next time you find yourself clicking endlessly through the channels, do yourself a favor and pack up your camera gear, dress in your warmest clothes and heat up your favorite hot drink and get outside to capture some of the nature in your neighborhood that will only be here for the last half of our Canadian winter.

Red Breasted Merganser with his cool spiked hair style